Some of you might be wondering, 'what is labasa like?'
You know what my work is like, you know what my life is like, but what's the town like? I've waited a year to blog about this because I could never muster up the words to describe this place. I felt like I'd say all the wrong things. But I'm going to try today. I've gathered some photos for easy visuals and hope that my words can transfer the mood and style of life in little Labasa (Lam-basa).
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thanks google earth |
I'll begin with why are we here. About a hundred years ago, while Fiji was still a British Colony, the British decided that Fiji would be a prime location for the growing, harvesting and crushing of sugar cane. They mapped out areas and decided to purchase land not owned by Fijian tribes and begin farming cane. At this same time they brought over Indians as indentured servants. Labasa was choosen to be a prime place for a sugar mil because 1) dry and hot temperatures 2) two main rivers that run out to the sea (for waste). So it began.
The mil is the only reason why Labasa started to be a main hub for the northern island and continues to grow. When the British gave Fiji their independance the Indians were given the freedom to remain in Fiji as they had completed their servitude. The majority of Indians did stay and were given (or had to buy I'm still not quite sure) the sugar cane land. To this day they are the primary farmers and make up more than 70% of the Labasa population.
Here's some photos:
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| sugar cane train |
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| while the drivers wait they sleep, picnic, talk and during the night smoke and drink grog |
window shopping in labasa....
The most challenging, but also the most rewarding aspect of living in this town is the lack of recreation. We are one of the most populated areas of Fiji, but lack a lot of outside influence like the other cities and towns. Many of the other places have shopping malls, the cinema, parks and picnic areas, good restraunts, beachfront bars and all that good stuff. Labasa is pretty bare.
Here's some photos of our town area:
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| the main road (the only road with shops) |
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the harvest |
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| this line can reach up to a mile long. sometimes the drivers have to stay for days |
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| bus stand. there is no set schedule, everything is on fiji time |
Since there isn't a lot to do, the people here live more traditional lives. Most 24 year old girls are married and on their 2nd or third child. They're generally stay at home mothers and focus on the household roles. Its been very difficult for myself and I think all volunteers to connect with other people our age because of these factors. When I'm having a difficult day I miss creativity, independence, art and critical thought among my peers.
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| fijian women fishing |
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| Indian women cooking and eating |
But traditional and conservative are not bad. I get the opportunity to walk down the streets and see Fijian women in sulu jabas and Indian women in Sari's and Salwaar-kamis. I have learned more than I thought I'd ever know about Hinduism and Islam. I see the direct effects of culture and the lives of people. In a village I'd be limited to one race and one districts traditions and in a large town I'd be surrounded by a large tourist or Western population.
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| ceremony at the famous snake temple in labasa |
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| mosque outside of labasa |
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| local police |
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after a workshop for village health worker training, fijian women in sulu jabas |
And when I get island fever, which happens regularly being a girl that likes to be on the road, I've learned what I need to do to make me feel better (the rewarding part). I garden, paint, cook, exercise, read and write letters. And when those don't seem to do the trick, I leave for the weekend. I have two options, go to the yatch harbor, savusavu, 3 hours away or to David's village up in the mountains.
I love going to the village. It's quiet, peaceful and a great escape from town. It only takes 2 and a half hours by bus, there are about 80 people in the village and its a 3km walk from the nearest canteen, paved road and bus stand. Sometimes I dream that all my friends and family do our own version of this someday.
Here are some photos:
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| two of the six kindergarteners |
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| looking out his front door |
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| my favorite |
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| view from a 10 minute hike outside his village |
There have only been a few times I wish my life in Fiji was more like the photos everyone see's of Fiji
But most of the time I'm really happy to experience a completely different way of life and the challenges that go along with that. I've learning a lot about myself and how to be happy without all the external influences we American's have all around us. This doesn't mean that I wouldn't kill for good cheese, beer, live music, a park or a beach, it just means that for the time being I'm okay learning to live well and be happy without it.
Hope everything is well on that side of the Pacific!
Miss you all!
Love,
Monica
